Everyday Exile Photojournalism from Tibet in Exile

Tibetan Exile Community Activism

2012-02-08T23:12:00.002+05:30

Collage of Images from Various 2011 Candle Light Vigils in McleodGanj

McleodGanj, HP, north India has been the exile home of HH Dalai Lama since shortly after he fled the Chinese occupation of Tibet in 1959. It is the location of the Tibetan Parliament in Exile (CTA, Central Tibetan Administration) and home to thousands of Tibetans who followed His Holiness into exile in India as well as their descendants, some now as great as fourth generation exiles.

The community holds events through out the year, and on special occasions, to maintain their cultural identity as well as show solidarity with those still suffering in Chinese occupied Tibet. Candle Light marches and prayer vigils (pictured above) are held whenever a Tibetan sacrifices his life for the cause of freedom.

One of the largest annual events is the commemoration of Tibetan Uprising Day (pictured below).

Collage of Images from 2011 Tibetan Uprising Day Events in McleodGanj

Since 2011, tensions inside Tibet have once again been increasing. Reportedly the situation is worse now than since the 2008 protests.

Today, February 8, 2012, has been declared a day for International Solidarity with Tibetans. Prayer vigils are taking place around the world, as well as peaceful protests by Tibetans and supporters in front of Chinese embassies from New Delhi, India to London, UK to New York and Washington DC.

Today is Lhakar, White Wednesday, a day when Tibetans traditionally "assert their identity by wearing traditional clothes, avoid using Chinese words and shop only in Tibetan-owned businesses.

US readers can sign a letter, in one simple step, addressed to their Senate representative, to support US Senate resolution 356 supporting the Tibetan people and encouraging the Chinese to open the region to international media, in addition to further steps.

Deity Masks

2011-12-02T07:21:00.001+05:30

Across the Himalayan region, colorful and, to the uneducated western eye, bizarre or even frightening, deity masks are displayed on exterior walls and for sale at street side vendors. These masks are (usually) replicas of the masks worn at special Tibetan Buddhist ceremonial events known as Cham.

Bright red, blue, black or unpainted wood, these intricate carvings depict faces with bulging eyes, fangs, a large third eye, and sometimes crowns of toothy skulls.

These masks have a long history, stemming from the time when Buddhism was just coming to the area now occupied by Tibet, Ladakh, and Nepal. One of the most important figures of this time is Padmasambhava, also known to Tibetans as Guru Rinpoche.

Guru Rinpoche came to Tibet from India to share the Buddhist teachings. At the time, the native people mostly followed ancient shamanistic religions, particularly Bon. Tradition holds that a great battle occurred between Padmasambhava and the old nature gods. Padmasambhava was victorious, subduing the old gods, who then had to agree to protect the teachings of Buddhism.

These dharmapalas, or protector deities, are depicted as wrathful figures. There are eight dharmapalas, but the one most commonly depicted is Mahakala.

The Cham dance commemorating Guru Rinpoche's victory is still held in Tibetan communities. I was lucky enough to attend one at Sherab Ling Monastery in the Tibetan exile settlement of Bir in India during 2010. The rest of images below were shot in Tibetan exile communities in both India and Nepal.

Masked Monks Waiting to Perform at 2010 Sherab Ling Cham

Masked Monks Performing at Sherab Ling Tsechu Cham

Multi-colored Mahakala Masks at a Vendor in Boudha, KTM, Nepal

Metal Deity Masks with Flaming "Mane" in Kathmandu

Aged Deity Masks Outside a Shop in Boudha

Deity Mask on a Shop Door

All images copyright Tammy Winand. Images may NOT be downloaded or re-used without the express written consent of the copyright holder.

For additional information on Deity masks, I recommend this article, Masks of the Himalayas, by Thomas Murray.

Mani Stones

2011-07-20T18:53:00.004+05:30

Mani Stones are stones featuring carved mantras, most often the Chenrezig Buddha of Compassion mantra, Om Mani Padme Hum. They may be heaped together in mounds or walls, and often appear near Buddhist places of worship (temples, stupas, holy lakes and mountains, or remote places where strong spirit presences are believed to exist).

The following are some examples I have come across during my travels in Tibetan exile communities in northern India:


Mani Stone Outside the Main Temple of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama-McleodGanj, India

Mani Stones and Image of Guru Rinpoche near Tsuglakhang, McleodGanj

Mani Stones, including a Kalachakra Mantra, at Tsuglakhang

Mani Stone Pile Outside Choekling Monastery in Bir Tibetan Settlement

Tibetan Buddhist Shrines

2011-06-23T15:42:00.001+05:30

In Buddhism, a shrine or altar appears in almost every home and public space. Shrines are a place where offerings to the Buddhas and other deities are presented. Buddhists believe that you should offer pleasing things to the Buddhas. These include light, incense, food and fresh clean water, flowers, sound (bells), and so forth. Any item which is especially pleasing to the worshiper can first go on the shrine as an offering.

In some cases (for example, at Protector Deity shrines) alcohol is also offered (to appease spirits which might otherwise be harmful).

The following examples are shrines in public places:

Dalai Lama Shrine in a McleodGanj Bookshop

Dalai Lama Shrine in McleodGanj Restaurant

Tibetan Buddhist Shrine at a McleodGanj Coffeehouse

Tibetan Buddhist Shrine in a Small McleodGanj Grocery

Larger Shrines appear in Buddhist temples and classrooms, such as the following:

Tibetan Buddhist Shrine in the McleodGanj Institute of Buddhist Dialectics Classroom

For special occasions, a more elaborate shrine might be set up. The following are Losar (Tibetan Lunar New Year) Shrines:

Losar Shrine at McleodGanj Coffeehouse

Losar Shrine in Tibetan Exile Home

Saga Dawa in Dharamsala

2011-06-16T14:21:00.000+05:30

The Tibetan community marked Saga Dawa, the holiest day of the Tibetan calendar, on June 15, 2011 with a variety of religious ceremonies.

Saga Dawa is the entire 4th month of the Tibetan lunar calendar. The full moon of the month, which fell on June 15 this year, is the date singled out to commemorate the birth, enlightenment, and Parinirvana (physical death) of Shakyamuni Buddha (the historical Buddha)

Saga Dawa is a time for doing increased religious practices and daily acts which convey the Buddha's teachings. Amongst these are not killing (many Tibetans, who traditionally consume meat, go vegetarian for the entire month) and the practice of generosity (giving alms to everyone who asks). Buddhists believe that the merit accumulated by doing such practices helps all beings reach enllightenment. The karmic weight of merit is multiplied many times on Saga Dawa.

Most of the region's beggars, lepers, saddhus and Indian monks came to McleodGanj to line the kora (walking meditation path) around His Holiness Dalai Lama's main temple to receive money and food alms. Many Tibetans performed repeated koras both outside and inside the temple.

Inside the temple, pujas (prayer ceremonies) began in the early morning hours and continued through midday.

Tibetan Woman Giving Alms to Indian Buddhist Monks, Making Change from His Alms Bowl

Tibetan Woman Placing Change in Hand of Indian Buddhist Monk

Tibetan Monastic Doing Prostrations at His Holiness Dalai Lama's Main Temple

Bhaley (pronounced Pal-LAY), a Tibetan Bread, to be Distributed to Attendees of Puja

Stupas

2011-06-01T09:32:00.004+05:30

Stupas, in Tibetan called "chorten", are "mound-like structures containing Buddhist relics, typically the remains of a Buddha, used by Buddhists as a place of worship." (paraphrased from the stupa wikipedia entry). Tibetan Buddhists make kora (a type of walking meditation) around stupas and may also prostrate towards them.

Stupa contain relics and/or the cremated remains of a lama or Rinpoche (considered to have been living Buddhas), mantras written on scrolls, "tsa tsa" and other offerings.
There are eight main types of stupas, each based on the Eight Major Events in the life of Buddha. There is also a ninth type, the Kalachakra Stupa, which are designed to protect against negative energies. Only a few of this type exist.

The Great Stupa of Boudhanath in Kathmandu, Nepal is one of the holiest pilgrimage sites in Tibetan Buddhism.

Stupa Along the Kora at HH Dalai Lama's Temple Complex in McleodGanj, Dharamsala, India.

Stupa on kor at HH Dalai Lama Temple Complex in McleodGanj, Dharamsala, India

Stupas at Dzongsar Shedrs in Bir, HP, India

Stupa at Zilnon Kagyeling Nyingma Stupa in McleodGanj, Dharamsala, India.

Stupa at Tashi Jong Monastery in Himachal Pradesh state, India. Said to have magical powers.

Grass Covered Stupa in Midst of Lalitpur, Kathmandu, Nepal

Note: All images on this page are copyrighted and may not be used in any way without the express written consent of the photographer. If you are interested in purchasing prints or posters, many are available at Support for Tibet in the Buddhist Sites Photography Department

Vesak (Buddha's Birthday) in Boudha

2011-05-19T09:53:00.000+05:30

Vesak is the celebration of the Buddha's birthday, enlightenment, and (some sources told me) also of his death. While not a traditional Tibetan holiday, per se, it is the beginning of the Tibetan holy month of Saga Dawa Duchen this year, and many followers of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal observed it as their most holy day.

I was fortunate to participate in the festivities at the Great Stupa of Boudha. There was another large celebration at the Swayambuth Stupa on the other side of Kathmandu.
Below are some of my best images from the celebration.


Afternoon Procession of Monks and Devotees


Monks Placing the Buddha on a Truck to Ride at Head of Procession

Generations in Exile

2011-04-28T13:41:00.000+05:30

Tibetans began fleeing armed Chinese oppressors/occupants in the 1950s. A great many followed His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama who fled into exile in India in 1959. They have settled in various places, most notably Bhutan, Nepal and India, and more recently the USA, UK, Australia, Belgium, and Switzerland.

The first generation to be born in exile is now in their 40s, and most of them have children and some even grandchildren. Those grandchildren are the fourth generation born in exile.

Penpa Came to India as a Refugee from Tibet in 1959

Three Generations in a Tibetan Family

Everyday Exile Project intends to pursue the Generations in Exile "theme" further at a future date.

Kora

2011-04-13T15:43:00.002+05:30

Late Afternoon Kora at the Great Stupa of Boudha

Kora (Tibetan,literally "circle"), is a form of walking meditation. The most simple explanation for westerners unfamiliar with this tradition is that Tibetans (and some other Buddhist traditions) walk clockwise around a holy site, such as a monastery or stupa, chanting mantras (a form of prayer) and moving their prayer beads with each prayer repetition. Kora are usually lined with prayer wheels, mani stones, and strung with prayer flags as forms of offerings.

Devotees may do a minimum of one circuit. A common number of repetitions is three (one for each of the Three Jewels-Buddha, Dharma, Sangha).
Very devout pilgrims may do the kora while prostrating (bowing) repeatedly along the length of the path. Some view kora as a social event and go with friends. Others have told me that for them it is more a form of exercise than meditation.

In McleodGanj (Dharamsala, HP, India) the main kora is a path which goes through a wooded area around the perimeter of the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. There is also a kora inside His Holiness' Tsuglakhang temple there.

In Boudha (Kathmandu, Nepal) the most famous kora is at the Great Stupa, followed by the stupa at Swayambu.

The following images all feature kora in Tibetan Buddhist communities in either India or Nepal.

Tibetan Women in the Settlement of Bir, HP, India Making Kora of a Stupa at Choekling Monastery

Tibetan Woman in Traditional Chupa doing Kora at Great Stupa, Boudha, Kathmandu, Nepal

Tibetan Woman at Kora...Not Everyone Wears traditional Clothing in to Kora

Street Food: Momo Seller

2011-02-05T12:12:00.000+05:30

A lot of living is done in the street. For many locals, that also includes working, socializing, even eating.

In this image, a momo seller outside His Holiness the Dalai Lama's main temple waits for customers.

Momos are steamed or fried dumplings. Street vendors usually offer them filled with diced mixed vegs or mashed potatos. In restuarants, popular versions include mutton and chicken.

Afternoon Stroll

2011-01-30T14:22:00.000+05:30

Open air booths covered with tarps line the streets of McleodGanj. Tibetans, and Indians, do business here, outdoors, year round.

In this photo, a monk and a Tibetan elder stopped at a stall along Temple Road to examine scrolls bearing inspirational quotes by His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama.

Viewers are strongly encouraged to comment and leave questions!
What are your first thoughts when you see this image?
If you came to McleodGanj, what items would you want to purchase as mementos of your visit?

Monks and Mani Wheels

2011-01-28T10:43:00.001+05:30

Religion plays a large role in traditional Tibetan life. To an outsider, the variety and complexity of ritual(s) can be overwhelming.

Pictured here is a monk spinning a hand-held mani wheel.
A basic explanation is: Inside the wheel, a mantra (form of prayer) is written repeatedly on a long scroll. As the wheel spins and the mantra or other prayers are recited, the prayers are sent out into the realms of existence, purifying negative karma and helping all beings move towards enlightenment.

Readers are encourage to leave comments and questions.
What questions do you have about mani wheels?
Do you believe a mantra has power?
If you could meet a Tibetan Buddhist monk, what would you ask about his beliefs?

Candlelight Vigil

2011-01-24T11:07:00.000+05:30


Tibetan Elder in traditional Dress Lighting Prayer Candle

In December 2010, I was asked by a friend to join an evening candlelight vigil in McleodGanj. As the crowd of Tibetans and westerners gathered in the main square, it became clear that the event was to mourn and protest the death of a Tibetan nun who had been arrested by the Chinese for demanding religious freedom.
Following her arrest, she, as most Tibetan political prisoners, was brutally tortured.
She later died as a result of injuries sustained and denial of medical treatment.
She was only 17 years old.

Tsewang Dhondup, 2008 Tibetan Uprising Gunshot Survivor

2011-01-18T13:49:00.000+05:30

Tsewang Dhondup Showing One of Two Gunshot Wounds He Sustained in 2008

Tsewang Dhondup, who grew up in the Kham region of Tibet, suffered two gunshot wounds while trying to help fellow protesters who had been injured during the 2008 Uprisings. He lives in McleodGanj and has traveled throughout India to tell his inspirational story to other exiles.

You can read the story Tsewang told told Everyday Exile Project during November 2010 HERE.

You can also read an in depth report on Tsewang, called "The Will to Survive", by Rebecca Novick on Huffington Post.

Readers are encouraged to ask questions and leave comments.

If you could meet Tsewang, what would you say to him or ask him?
How do you feel about the Chinese treatment of Tibetans who want their independence?
Do you think peaceful protests can be effective in this, or other similar, situations?

Child of Exile

2011-01-16T12:56:00.000+05:30

While waiting for His Holiness the Dalai Lama's motorcade to return to his residence in McleodGanj, 11 year old Tenzin wrote in the dust on the back of a parked taxi, "50 Years in Exile in India".

Tenzin's parents came from Tibet in the early 1980s. She has never seen Tibet, and told me she doubts she will ever be able to go there but that it is always her dream.

Fifty Years in Exile

2011-01-14T15:09:00.002+05:30

On a cafe outside Tsulglakhang, the main temple of His Holiness the Dalai Lama in McleodGanj, capital of Tibet in Exile, a large mural declares that, after half a century, Tibetans are still fighting to regain their independence.

The Dalai Lama fled into exile in India in 1959. Since then more than 120,000 Tibetans have followed. Most are living in exile communities in India, Nepal and Bhutan, with other large groups in the USA, Canada, the United Kingdom, Switzerland, Norway, France, Taiwan and Australia.

A 1961 United Nations General Assembly resolution asserted that the presence of Tibetan refugees in neighboring countries was "evidence" of human rights abuses by the Chinese Communist government in Tibet. There are strong restrictions on freedom of religion and freedom of speech. At present, most new arrivals in exile are children sent to Tibetan cultural schools to receive a traditional education which they do not have access to in Tibet.

Until the March 2008 Uprisings in Tibet, up to 4500 "new arrivals" were coming to McleodGanj (upper Dharamsala) each year. After the 2008 protests, a Chinese crackdown reduced those numbers to roughly 300. According to local observers, 2010 was the first year the numbers began to climb, with an estimated 700-1000 new arrivals reported.

Viewers are encouraged to leave questions as constructive comments. The author will do her best to get a direct and accurate reply within 24 hours.
What does the image of the "resistance" mural make you feel?
Do you have any personal experience of religious or cultural persecution?
What do you most want to ask of Tibetans who have chosen to flee into exile?

Welcome to Everyday Exile: Photojournalism From Tibet in Exile

2011-01-12T20:40:00.000+05:30


Solitary Monk Doing Inside Kora at His Holiness the Dalai Lama's Main Temple

Welcome to Everyday Exile Photojournalism, a companion blog to Everyday Exile Project.

This blog is dedicated to the power of images to tell a story. In this case, the story of Tibet in Exile, mainly in India.

Every image featured here will in some way illuminate the condition of Tibetans who have fled from Chinese-occupied Tibet, for whatever reason, and the places where they have tried to maintain their traditions/culture.

Images will range from Tibetan Buddhism to political activism, from school children to the community's elders, from cultural traditions to new ways the younger generation is moving into the world.

The photographer, Tammy Winand, has lived in McleodGanj, the capital of Tibet in exile, for a total of 8 months to date, on two separate occasions. Tibetans and their culture and religion have strongly influenced her life. She hopes you will be inspired and educated by the features to follow.

Her intent is to publish 3-4 featured images weekly.

Viewers are encouraged to leave constructive comments and questions re: image content.

What does the image of the solitary old monk at His Holiness the Dalai Lama's main temple in McleodGanj make you feel?
Are you familiar with the term "kora"?
Do you know how the prayer wheels in the image "work"?
If not, please ask in a comment, which I will answer to the best of my ability, as promptly as my internet connection permits!
Thank you!